Sivu: 2 / 4:sta EnsimmäinenEnsimmäinen 1234 ViimeinenViimeinen
Tulokset 31:stä 60:een 103:sta
  1. #31
    Lainaa (Heksa @ Maalis. 08 2008,00:14) kirjoitti
    Suurin syy miksi en siellä käy mitään muuta ostamassa, kuin kolaa ja keksejä, on niiden idioottimainsen ostospakkaus-systeemin... Se kun ei täällä suomessa oikein toimi. Vaikkakin meillä on jo isohkoja tuloeroja, niin ei meillä silti niitä matalapalkkaisia kassinpakkaajia ole tiskin päässä, kuten esim USA:ssa.
    Ei tarvitse olla kovin nero, todetakseen sen, että tämä suomessa vallalla oleva n. 2m pitkä, 3 osaan jaettu pakkauspöytä on se, joka vetää kassajonoja.
    Liiterin tulos vuodessa tuplaantuisi 100% varmasti, jos vaan ottaisivat tämän systeemin käyttöön.
    Mutta ei saksalainen ei tätä näköjään tajua.
    Itseasiassa Lidl on alkanut päivittämään noita kassojaan normaalin suomalaisen mallin mukaiseksi. Ilmeisesti negatiivinen palaute on mennyt perille.

    Ja noista öljyistä: Kukin tyylillään. Itse kyllä taian nyt ensi viikolla käydä ostamassa Hondan omaa öljyä, kun ekaa kertaa ko pyörään vaihdan ajoöljyjä.

    Syksyllä vaihdoin säilytysöljyt Motonetistä ostettuun halpaan tavaraan, ja kyllä se ainakin mutu-tuntumalla vaikutti huonommalta kun ajoin pyörää talvisäilöön. Ei vain tuntunut vaihteet vaihtuvan yhtä näppärästi. Ja ehkä hieman erilaista rahinaakin kuului. Tosin, täältä luetut tarinat saattoivat vain saada mielikuvituksen laukkaamaan
    CBR 600F '99 --> Triumph Daytona 675 '06
  2. #32
    Lainaa (Toippari @ Maalis. 07 2008,20:47) kirjoitti
    Manoil ja siellä itäsuomalainen sheikki kaataa jäteöljyä muijansa vanhojen kusenpolttamien sukkahousujen haarakiilan läpi.
    Manoil elikkä MiesÖljy. Mikäpä sen miehekkäämpää. Castrolit ja Motulit ym. kurat nurkkaan ja MiesÖljyä peliin.
    Kronoby Racing Team
  3. #33
    Kohta ei sitten voi enää ostaa luottavaisin mielin käytettyä pyörää yksityiseltä, joka on itse huoltanut pyörää.

    Ei helvetti kaikesta sitä nyt pitää säästää!

    Biltemasta ei voi ostaa kuin lekoja ja sorkkarautoja. (Nekin katkeaa jos tarvii käyttää voimaa).

    Ps. Kohta kaikki asuu ölsbyy taloissa.
    Yamaha R1 -08
    Kawasaki ZX-10R -06
    Yamaha FZ1-N -06
    Yamaha FZ6-S -04
    Suzuki GSX-750F -89
    Honda CBR 600F -89
  4. #34
    Lainaa (mouhja @ Maalis. 10 2008,22:54) kirjoitti
    Kohta ei sitten voi enää ostaa luottavaisin mielin käytettyä pyörää yksityiseltä, joka on itse huoltanut pyörää.

    Ei helvetti kaikesta sitä nyt pitää säästää!

    Biltemasta ei voi ostaa kuin lekoja ja sorkkarautoja. (Nekin katkeaa jos tarvii käyttää voimaa).

    Ps. Kohta kaikki asuu ölsbyy taloissa.
    vihjaat käsitteeseen "Biltsun tinaa"
    GSXR-1000 Limited
  5. #35
    Lainaa (Moto guzzi @ Maalis. 08 2008,16:06) kirjoitti
    Ei vaan aivan todella se on Statoil kun jalostaa öljyt Biltemalle. Tuli aikoinaan oltua Pösöllä töissä, ja ainakin täällä puolen lahtea kyseinen merkki suosittelee Statoilin öljyjä. Ja kun firma vaihtoi öljymerkin pösön suosituksen mukaiseksi, oli myös esittelytilaisuus Statoilin tuotteista. Siinä sivussa kävi mm ilmi että bilteman öljyt tulevät heiltä. Joten, kysytty on.
    ai minä kun luulin että se on ranskalainen TOTAL jota se pösö ja sitikka suosittelee,jotain selaista TOTAL mainontaa oon nähnyt niiten noissa wrc autojen kyljissäkin ,no tiiä siten mitä lienee
  6. #36
    Lainaa (Tylyttäjä @ Maalis. 10 2008,16:49) kirjoitti
    Lainaa (Tohtori R @ Maalis. 10 2008,16:42) kirjoitti
    niikuin jo kerran tuli sanottua onko näin kalliissa harrastuksessa mitään järkeä säästää todella pieniä summin (~20e) että laittaa jotain epämäärästä bilteman öljyä ku pahimmassa tapauksessa siitä se vasta kalliiksi rupeaakin! voitelu on kuitenkin moottorin tärkeimpiä toimintoja!

    no jokainen toonaa tyylillään niin se vaan näköjään on!
    Eiköhän se ole jonkun ihan tunnetun valmistajan öljyä. Jos sillä on nuo JASO luokitukset, niin varmasti pelaa siinä missä muutkin.

    Ei nämä prätkät mitään ihmelaitteita ole, jotka vaatisi ihmeöljyt. Varmasti se 5000km ajettu "hifi-öljy" on paljon paskempaa ominaisuuksiltaan kuin uusi Bilteman öljy.

    Jos sen öljyn pitäisi olla jotain aivan ihmeellistä, niin prätkiähän kilkkaisi jatkuvasti. Esim tuo märkäkytkin kun sottaa ja likaa ne öljyt ihan hetkessä. Ei kovin pitkään meinaan pysy kirkkaina.

    Eli siitä vaan Bilteman öölit koneeseen, jos siltä tuntuu! Ei varmasti kilkkaa sen takia.
    ....ja Bilteman 7€ akkulaturilla lykätään ihan samanlaista virtaa akkuun , kun 100€ HIFILLÄKIN . ( Sen vähän mitä mp-akku nyt latausta tarvii...)
  7. #37
    Olisiko joku "bilteman öljy ja kaikki halpa on paskaa" -tyyppi niin ystävällinen ja esittäisi yhdenkin lausunnon siitä, että se on huonoa. Tai jopa jonkun esittämän lausuman siitä, että kone on hajonnu ym. jotain halpaa öljyä käytettäessä.

    Esittäkääs nyt...kannattaa lukea noita öljykeskusteluja läpi ja etsiä sieltä, mutta voi olla vaarana, ettei löydä kun ketjut on spämmätty täyteen kehuja delvacista ja muutamasta muusta halvasta paskasta, joilla jampat (hullut) ajaa rata-ajoa urut auki.
    Säälin saa lahjaksi, kateus pitää ansaita!
  8. #38
    Lainaa (Toippari @ Maalis. 11 2008,10:14) kirjoitti
    Akkulaturikin oli paska. Lauko koko ajan jotain relettä päälle. Väittivät että toimii. Heitin mettään. Varmaan kaikki paperit kerto että kyse on huippulaitteesta. Lukekaa te vaan kuponkeja. Paskaa tavaraa.
    Viimeisin ostos oli hylsysarja. Melkein elinikäinen takuu. Räikkä ei kestänyt yhden renkaan pultin irroitusta. -laatupaskaa
    Tavallista hylsysarjaa ei ole tarkoitettu AUTONRENKAANPULTTIEN avaamiseen. Momentti ja käytönaikainen kiinnitarttuminen vaativat järjettömän avausmomentin, ennen kuin mikään liikahtaa. On tasan tyhmää rikkoa työkaluja väärässä kohteessa, se ei ole työkalun alkuperän vika.
    Itsekin olen vääntänyt Facomin, Stahwillen, Snap-onin ja Teng Toolsin avaimia kierteelle pyöränpulteissa. Jäipä vielä erään kuplan pultit yhä kiinni, rikottuaan ensin Stahlwillen avaimen.
    "Ei se koko, vaan miten sitä käyttää", sanoi 50cc (+750 +1100cc +125cc)
  9. #39
    Mikään räikkä ei kestä jos lyödään tarpeeksi iso hylsy ja parin metrin putki jatkoksi.
    Viisasta olisi valita tarkoitukseen sopiva työkalu, tosi juttu on kyllä että olen itsekkin ostanut Biltemasta useammankin työkalusetin ja yksi hylsysarja oli oikeasti susi, sarjan kaikki osat räikkää lukuunottamatta meni paskaksi "suhteellisen" normaalissa käytössa.
    Alkuperäiseen aiheeseen, jos öljyllä on riittävä luokittelu niin ostan, Biltemalla on toiminut omalla kohdallani tuotevastuulaki ja ovat korvanneet tuotteestaan aiheutuneen vaurion.
    Purkaan sen joutuu kumminkin...
  10. #40
    Lainaa (Toippari @ Maalis. 11 2008,11:31) kirjoitti
    Lainaa (TunturiTT @ Maalis. 11 2008,11:27) kirjoitti
    Lainaa (Toippari @ Maalis. 11 2008,10:14) kirjoitti
    Akkulaturikin oli paska. Lauko koko ajan jotain relettä päälle. Väittivät että toimii. Heitin mettään. Varmaan kaikki paperit kerto että kyse on huippulaitteesta. Lukekaa te vaan kuponkeja. Paskaa tavaraa.
    Viimeisin ostos oli hylsysarja. Melkein elinikäinen takuu. Räikkä ei kestänyt yhden renkaan pultin irroitusta. -laatupaskaa
    Tavallista hylsysarjaa ei ole tarkoitettu AUTONRENKAANPULTTIEN avaamiseen. Momentti ja käytönaikainen kiinnitarttuminen vaativat järjettömän avausmomentin, ennen kuin mikään liikahtaa. On tasan tyhmää rikkoa työkaluja väärässä kohteessa, se ei ole työkalun alkuperän vika.
    Itsekin olen vääntänyt Facomin, Stahwillen, Snap-onin ja Teng Toolsin avaimia kierteelle pyöränpulteissa. Jäipä vielä erään kuplan pultit yhä kiinni, rikottuaan ensin Stahlwillen avaimen.
    Aivan käyttäjän vika. Olis pitänyt pyytää perehdytys. *
    Järjen käyttökin riittää.

    Ei hymiöitä.
    "Ei se koko, vaan miten sitä käyttää", sanoi 50cc (+750 +1100cc +125cc)
  11. #41
    Semmonen vinkki tähän räikän rikkomiseen ym, että jos juuttunutta pulttia yrittää vääntämällä avata, rikkoutuu joko avain tai pultti. Nopea iskumainen voima on tehokkaampi.

    Esim. vanhoissa GS suzukeissa on nokka-akselien päissä ne pyöreät alumiiniset koristelätkät todella pienillä kuusiokoloruuveilla (3mm?) kiinni. Ne pultit tuntuu aina jämähtävän venttiilinsäätövälillä, kun alumiinia kierteet ovat..
    Varma tapa saada kuusiokolot pyöreiksi on alkaa vääntämään rauhallisesti lisäten voimaa. Pitää uskaltaa kerralla tempaista ne auki. Ne joko lähtee tai sitten ei. Avaimet ja ruuvin kanta kuitenkin kestää paremmin tuollaista iskua.
    zx10r -04 + gs1000g -80, gs850g -79 + gs550e -78 + kz440 ltd -80 + gt380 -73 + yz250 -91 + kx80 -94 + XL600 -85, Gas Gas JT250 -96
  12. #42
    Juu ei räikkä ole todellakaan mihinkään kauheeseen vääntämiseen tehty missään nimessä.

    Biltemasta saa ihan hyviäkin työkaluja, joihin saa takuun.
    Kirjoitukseni ja mielipiteeni ovat henkilökohtaisia. En edusta kirjoituksillani mitään yritystä tai organisaatiota.

    *** Suzuki GSX-R 1070 K5, +200mph Motorcycle Club Edition ***
  13. #43
    Pitäsköhän huvikseen ajella tuolla oikein kovasti tuunatulla kilo-Suitsalla koko ens kesä Bilteman öljyt sisässä..
    Kirjoitukseni ja mielipiteeni ovat henkilökohtaisia. En edusta kirjoituksillani mitään yritystä tai organisaatiota.

    *** Suzuki GSX-R 1070 K5, +200mph Motorcycle Club Edition ***
  14. #44
    Lainaa (Tylyttäjä @ Maalis. 11 2008,14:45) kirjoitti
    Pitäsköhän huvikseen ajella tuolla oikein kovasti tuunatulla kilo-Suitsalla koko ens kesä Bilteman öljyt sisässä..
    Todennäköisesti se vain pelittäisi kuten ennenkin..
    zx10r -04 + gs1000g -80, gs850g -79 + gs550e -78 + kz440 ltd -80 + gt380 -73 + yz250 -91 + kx80 -94 + XL600 -85, Gas Gas JT250 -96
  15. #45
    Lainaa (svahnm @ Maalis. 11 2008,14:55) kirjoitti
    Lainaa (Tylyttäjä @ Maalis. 11 2008,14:45) kirjoitti
    Pitäsköhän huvikseen ajella tuolla oikein kovasti tuunatulla kilo-Suitsalla koko ens kesä Bilteman öljyt sisässä..
    Todennäköisesti se vain pelittäisi kuten ennenkin..
    Niinpä Ehkä sitten porukka jo uskoisi, ettei sillä merkillä ole niin väliä, kunhan täyttää vaatimukset.
    Kirjoitukseni ja mielipiteeni ovat henkilökohtaisia. En edusta kirjoituksillani mitään yritystä tai organisaatiota.

    *** Suzuki GSX-R 1070 K5, +200mph Motorcycle Club Edition ***
  16. #46
    Minäpä vetäisen jokerin peliin ja väitän että laatuöljyissäkin on eroja toisin kuten Tylyttäjä ei väittänyt... (parempi?)
    Oiltest



    F = dp / dt
  17. #47
    Lainaa (wizard11 @ Maalis. 11 2008,15:03) kirjoitti
    Minäpä vetäisen jokerin peliin ja väitän että laatuöljyissäkin on eroja toisin kuten Tylyttäjä väittää...
    Oiltest
    Wanha!
    zx10r -04 + gs1000g -80, gs850g -79 + gs550e -78 + kz440 ltd -80 + gt380 -73 + yz250 -91 + kx80 -94 + XL600 -85, Gas Gas JT250 -96
  18. #48
    No lukekaa nyt ensin mitä moottoriöljy on:

    Motor oil, or Engine oil is a type of liquid oil used for lubrication by various types of internal combustion engine. While the main function is to lubricate moving parts, motor oil also cleans, inhibits corrosion, and cools the engine by carrying heat away from the moving parts. The majority of motor oils are derived from petroleum.

    [edit] Use of motor oil

    Moto oil is a lubricant in various types of internal combustion engine. These include motor vehicles or Road Vehicles - the typical light automobiles (including cars, SUVs, minivans, pick-up trucks). Heavy automobiles would include Busses, Trucks and HGVs. Other vehicles, include motorcycles and mopeds, quad-bikes or ATVs, go-karts, snowmobiles, boats (fixed engine installations and outboards), ride-on lawn mowers, large agricultural and construction equipment, trains and aeroplanes. In engines there are parts which move very closely against each other; such motion causes friction, absorbing otherwise useful power produced by the motor and converting the energy to heat. Friction also wears away the contacting surfaces of those parts, which could lead to lower efficiency and degradation of the motor. This increases fuel consumption and decreases power output.

    Lubricating oil makes a separating film between surfaces of parts moving next to each other so as to minimize direct contact between them, decreasing friction, wear, and production of excessive heat, thus protecting the engine. Motor oil also carries away heat from moving parts, which is important because materials tend to become softer and less abrasion-resistant at high temperatures. Some engines have an additional oil cooler.

    In petrol (gasoline) engines, the top compression ring can expose the motor oil to temperatures of 320 °F / 160 °C . In diesel engines the top ring can expose the oil to temperatures over 600 °F / 315 °C. Motor oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at these higher temperatures.

    Coating metal parts with oil also keeps them from being exposed to oxygen, which inhibits their oxidation at elevated operating temperatures (basically preventing them from rusting). Corrosion inhibitors may also be added to the motor oil. Many motor oils also have detergent and dispersant additives to help keep the engine clean and minimize oil sludge buildup.

    Rubbing of metal engine parts inevitably produces some microscopic metallic particles from the wearing of the surfaces. Sludge also accumulates in the engine. Such particles could circulate in the oil and grind against the moving parts, causing erosion and wear. Because particles inevitably build up in the oil, it is typically circulated through an oil filter to remove harmful particles. An oil pump, a vane or gear pump powered by the vehicle engine, pumps the oil throughout the engine, including the oil filter. Oil filters can be a full flow or bypass type.

    In the crankcase of a vehicle engine, motor oil lubricates rotating or sliding surfaces between the crankshaft journals bearings (main bearings and big-end bearings), and rods connecting the pistons to the crankshaft. The oil collects in an oil pan, or sump at the bottom of the crankcase. In some small engines such as lawn mower engines, dippers on the bottoms of connecting rods dip into the oil at the bottom and splash it around the crankcase as needed to lubricate parts inside. In modern vehicle engines, the oil pump takes oil from the oil pan and sends it through the oil filter into oil galleries, from which the oil lubricates the main bearings holding the crankshaft up at the main journals and camshaft bearings operating the valves. In typical modern vehicles, oil pressure-fed from the oil galleries to the main bearings enters holes in the main journals of the crankshaft. From these holes in the main journals, the oil moves through passageways inside the crankshaft to exit holes in the rod journals to lubricate the rod bearings and connecting rods. Some simpler designs relied on these rapidly moving parts to splash and lubricate the contacting surfaces between the piston rings and interior surfaces of the cylinders. However, in modern designs, there are also passageways through the rods which carry oil from the rod bearings to the rod-piston connections and lubricate the contacting surfaces between the piston rings and interior surfaces of the cylinders. This oil film also serves as a seal between the piston rings and cylinder walls to separate the combustion chamber in the cylinder head from the crankcase. The oil then drips back down into the oil pan. To see these details on a crankshaft, see "How Car Engines Work" at HowStuffWorks or "Types of Lubricating Systems" at Integrated Publishing.

    [edit] Non-Motor oils

    While it may still be used in motor vehicles, ATF or Automatic Transmission Fluid is a separate type of specialist lubricating fluid. Varying specifications of ATF are used automatic gearboxes, and some power steering systems, and should NOT be used to lubricate the engine. It is typically colored dark red to distinguish it from the motor oil and other fluids in the vehicle.

    Other non-motor oils include gear or transmission, and differentials oils. These are used in manual gearboxes and driven axles. They could include speciality uses including EP or Extreme Pressure, Hypoid, and Limited Slip functions. Again, they are NOT to be used for engine lubrication.

    [edit] Non-vehicle motor oils

    Other kinds of motors also use motor oil, as well as engines that are not in vehicles such as those for electrical generators. Examples include 4-stroke or 4-cycle internal combustion engines such as those used in many "walk behind" lawn mowers and other engines, and special 2-cycle oil used in 2-stroke or 2-cycle internal combustion engines such as those used in various smaller engines like snow throwers (blowers), chain saws, toy engines like those in model airplanes, certain gardening equipment like weed/grass trimmers, leaf blowers, soil cultivators, etc. Often, the applications are not exposed to as wide a temperature range in use as vehicles, so these oils may be single grade or have less viscosity index improver. 2-cycle oil is used differently than other motor oils in that it is pre-mixed with the gasoline or fuel, often in a gasoline: oil ratio of 50 : 1, and burned in use along with the gasoline.

    In addition to the 2-cycle oil used if they have gasoline engines, chain saws also separately use "bar and chain oil" for lubricating the surfaces where the cutting chain moves around bar.

    Other examples of mechanical equipment often using oil include oil-driven compressors, vacuum pumps, diffusion pumps, sewing machines and other devices with motors, oil-driven hydraulic equipment, and turbines.

    The oil properties will vary according to the individual needs of these devices.

    [edit] Properties of motor oil
    Spills of engine oil onto wet concrete create characteristic iridescent (rainbow-hued) stains — a thin layer of oil floats above the water.
    Spills of engine oil onto wet concrete create characteristic iridescent (rainbow-hued) stains — a thin layer of oil floats above the water.

    Most motor oils are made from a heavier, thicker petroleum hydrocarbon base stock derived from crude oil, with additives to improve certain properties. One of the most important properties of motor oil in maintaining a lubricating film between moving parts is its viscosity. The viscosity of a liquid can be thought of as its "thickness" or a quantity of resistance to flow. The viscosity must be high enough to maintain a satisfactory lubricating film, but low enough that the oil can flow around the engine parts satisfactorily to keep them well coated under all conditions. The viscosity index is a measure of how much the oil's viscosity changes as temperature changes. A higher viscosity index indicates the viscosity changes less with temperature than a lower viscosity index.

    Motor oil must be able to flow at cold winter temperatures to lubricate internal moving parts upon starting up the engine. Another important property of motor oil is its pour point, which is indicative of the lowest temperature at which the oil could still be poured satisfactorily. The lower the pour point temperature of the oil, the more desirable the oil is when starting up at cold temperature.

    Oil is largely composed of hydrocarbons which can burn if ignited. Still another important property of motor oil is its flash point, the lowest temperature at which the oil gives off vapors which can ignite. It is dangerous for the oil in a motor to ignite and burn, so a high flash point is desirable. At a petroleum refinery, fractional distillation separates a motor oil fraction from other crude oil fractions, removing the volatile components which ignite more easily, and therefore increasing the oil's flash point.

    Another test done on oil is to determine the Total Base Number (TBN), which is a measurement of the reserve alkalinity of an oil to neutralize acids. The resulting quantity is determined as mg KOH/ (gram of lubricant). Analogously, Total Acid Number (TAN) is the measure of a lubricant's acidity. Other tests include zinc, phosphorus, or sulfur content, and testing for excessive foaming.

    Different motor oils are sold for Diesel fuel engines, with many claimed to contain a higher level of detergents to keep fine combustion soot in suspension. However, for some brands only the packaging varies (the oil is the same), and in general a diesel engine can use any good quality oil of the correct grade.

    [edit] Grades of motor oil
    Range of Motor Oils on display in Kuwait
    Range of Motor Oils on display in Kuwait

    The Society of Automotive Engineers, usually abbreviated as SAE, has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. SAE viscosity gradings include the following: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60 or 70. Some of the numbers can be suffixed with the letter W.

    [edit] Single-grade, or monograde motor oil

    For single-grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a reference temperature of 100°C (212°F) in units of mm²/s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as an SAE number 0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 or 70. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number is. These numbers are often referred to as the weight of a motor oil. The reference temperature is meant to approximate the operating temperature to which motor oil is exposed in an engine.

    The viscosity of single-grade oil derived from petroleum unimproved with additives changes considerably with temperature. As the temperature increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases logarithmically in a relatively predictable manner. On single-grade oils, viscosity testing can be done at cold, winter (W) temperature (as well as checking minimum viscosity at 100°C or 212°F) to grade an oil as SAE number 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. A single-grade oil graded at the hot temperature is expected to test into the corresponding grade at the winter temperature; i.e. a 10 grade oil should correspond to a 10W oil. For some applications, such as when the temperature ranges in use are not very wide, single-grade motor oil is satisfactory; for example, lawn mower engines, and vintage or classic cars.

    [edit] Multi-grade motor oil

    The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a low viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIs are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base number when cold and the viscosity of second number when hot. This enables one type of oil to be generally used all year, and when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

    The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature. The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F). The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. This "classic" method of defining the "W" rating has since been replaced with a more technical test where a "cold crank simulator" is used at increasingly lowered temps. A 0W oil is tested at -35°F, a 5W at -30°F and a 10W is tested at -25°F. The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now make no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or mpg constraints come into play. Oil circulates through the piston oil rings to cool and lubricate the compression rings. Inside gasoline engines, the top compression ring is exposed to temperatures as high as 500°F.

    Many new vehicles are marked to use 5W-20 oil (Honda, Ford, and more recently Toyota) which is not much thinner than a 30 weight oil. Nay-sayers of 20 weight oil's ability to protect engines should note that typically, 30 weight oils shear down into the 20 weight range anyway. Most engine wear is during start-up and warm-up period, where the thinner 20 weight oil's flow is desirable. Overall, lab test results of the wear metals contained in used oil samples show low or lower wear with 20 weight than 30 in applications it is specified for. Some ultra fuel efficient and hybrid vehicles are marked to use 0W-20 oil. For some selective mechanical problems with engines, using a more viscous oil can ameliorate the symptoms, i.e. changing from 5W-20 to 20W-50 may eliminate a knocking noise from the engine but doesn't solve the problem, just "masks" it. Excess amounts of oil consumed by an engine burning it can be addressed by using a thicker oil, a 10W-40 might not burn off as fast compared to a 5W-30. A newer product that also addresses this issue is the "High-Miles" oils now marketed. They tend to be slightly thick for their grades, contain extra additives and seal conditioners. Apparently the formulation of these oils works well in many instances.

    [edit] Turbine motor oil

    Turbine motor oils are designed somewhat differently than reciprocating engine oils traditionally used in automobiles. Deposit control and corrosion are not significant issues when formulating a turbine oil, and the shear stresses that turbine oils are exposed to are minimal in light of the fact that turbines are naturally balanced rotating machines unlike reciprocating engines. Turbine oils tend to have the ISO VG range 32, 46, and 68 (cSt at 40°C), and make extensive use of polyolester, polyalphaolefin, and Group II as base stock due to the high temperatures they must endure. Varnish is the most problematic contaminant, which can only be detected accurately with the Ultra Centrifuge test resulting in the "UC value".

    In most aviation gas turbine applications, peak lubricant temperatures are not reached during engine operation, but after shutdown, when heat has been able to migrate from the combustor cans and the compressors into the regions of the engine with lubricated bearings and gearboxes. The gas flow associated with running the turbine provides significant convective cooling that disappears when the engine is shut down, leaving residual heat that causes temperatures within the turbine to rise dramatically, an often-misunderstood phenomenon.

    [edit] Motor Oil Approval Standards

    [edit] American Petroleum Institute

    Motor oil used for motor vehicle engines is commonly called engine oil in American Petroleum Institute (API) documentation. Engine oil is used for the lubrication, cooling, and cleaning of internal combustion engines. Motor oil may be composed of a lubricant base stock only in the case of non-detergent oil, or a lubricant base stock plus additives to improve the oil's detergency, extreme pressure performance, and ability to inhibit corrosion of engine parts. Lubricant base stocks are categorized into five groups by the API. Group I base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum which is further refined with solvent extraction processes to improve certain properties such as oxidation resistance and to remove wax. Group II base stocks are composed of fractionally distilled petroleum that has been hydrocracked to further refine and purify it. Group III base stocks have similar characteristics to Group II base stocks, except that Group III base stocks have higher viscosity indexes. Group III base stocks are produced by further hydrocracking of Group II base stocks, or of hydroisomerized slack wax, (a byproduct of the dewaxing process). Group IV base stock are polyalphaolefins (PAOs). Group V is a catch-all group for any base stock not described by Groups I to IV. Examples of group V base stocks include polyol esters, polyalkylene glycols (PAG oils), and perfluoropolyalkylethers (PFPAEs). Groups I and II are commonly referred to as mineral oils, group III is typically referred to as synthetic (except in Germany and Japan, where they must not be called synthetic) and group IV is a synthetic oil. Group V base oils are so diverse that there is no catch-all description.

    Motor oils are further categorized by their API service class[1]. The API service classes have two general classifications: S for "Service" (orgininating from Spark ignition) (typical passenger cars and light trucks using gasoline engines) and C for "Commercial" (orginating from Compression ignition) (typical diesel equipment). Note that the API oil classification structure has eliminated specific support for wet-clutch motorcycle applications in their descriptors, and API SJ & newer oils are referred to be specific to automobile and light truck use. Accordingly, motorcycle oils are subject to their own unique standards. The latest API service standard designation is SM for gasoline automobile and light-truck engines. The SM standard refers to a group of laboratory and engine tests, including the latest series for control of high-temperature deposits. Current API service categories include SM, SL and SJ for gasoline engines. All previous service designations are obsolete, although motorcycle oils commonly still utilize the SF/SG standard. There are seven diesel engine service designations which are current: CJ-4, CI-4 Plus, CI-4, CH-4, CG-4, CF-2, and CF. All others are obsolete. It is possible for an oil to conform to both the gasoline and diesel standards. Engine oil which has been tested and meets the API standards may display the API starburst symbol with the service designation on containers sold to oil users. The latest guide to API oil certifications can be found at [2].

    [edit] ILSAC

    The International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC) also has standards for motor oil. Their latest standard, GF-4[3] was approved in 2004. A key test is the Sequence IIIG [4] , which involves running a 3.8L, GM 3.8L V-6 at 125 horsepower, 3600 rpm, and 150°C oil temperature for 100 hours. These are much more severe conditions than any API-specified oil was designed for: cars which typically push their oil temperature consistently above 100°C are most turbo-charged engines, along with most engines of European or Japanese origin, particularly small capacity, high power output.

    The IIIG test is about 50% more difficult [5] than the previous IIIF test, used in GF-3 and API SL oils. Engine oils bearing the API starburst symbol since 2005 are ILSAC GF-4 compliant. [6]

    [edit] ACEA

    The ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Européens d'Automobiles) performance/quality classifications A3/A5, and MB 229.5 tests used in Europe are even tougher than the API and ILSAC standards. In cars of American origin, it is debatable whether this matters for normal drain intervals (5,000-7,000 miles). However, most modern cars of European origin frequently specifically refer oils meeting ACEA standards, and many European cars now make no reference to API specifications. CEC (The Co-ordinating European Council) is the development body for fuel and lubricant testing in Europe and beyond, setting the standards via their European Industry groups; ACEA, ATIEL, ATC and CONCAWE.

    [edit] JASO

    The Japanese Automotive Standards Organization (JASO) has come up with their own set of performance/quality standards for pertol engines of Japanese origin.

    For 4-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO T903 standard is used, and is particularly relevant to motorcycle engines. The JASO T903-MA and MA2 standards are approved wet clutch use, and the JASO T903-MB standard is NOT suitable for wet clutch use.

    For 2-stroke gasoline engines, the JASO M345 (FA, FB, FC) standard is used, and this refers particularly low ash, lubricity, detergency, low smoke and exhaust blocking.

    These standards, especially JASO-MA and JASO-FC are designed to address oil-requirement issues not addressed by the API service categories.

    [edit] OEM

    By the early 1990s, many of the European OEM (or Original Equipment Manufacturer) car manufacturers felt that the direction of the American API oil standards were not compatible with their own European designed high performance engines. Furthermore, the American "synthetic" way forward was the development of hydrocracking group I/II/III base stocks, whereas the demands of European engines were favouring synthetics from group IV and group V base stocks. As a result many leading European motor manufacturers created and developed their own "OEM" oil standards. Probably the most well known of these are the VW50*.0* series from Volkswagen Group, and the MB22*.** from Mercedes-Benz. Other European OEM standards are from General Motors, for the Vauxhall, Opel and Saab brands, the Ford "WSS" standards, BMW Special Oils and BMW Longlife standards, Porsche, and the PSA Group of Peugeot and Citroën.

    In recent times, very highly specialised "longlife" oils have arisen, whereby, taking Volkswagen Group vehicles, a petrol engine can now go up to 2years or 30,000km (a little under 20,000miles), and a diesel engine can go up to 2 years or 50,000km (a little under 30,000miles) - before requiring an oil change. BMW, GM, Mercedes and PSA all have similar longlife oil standards.

    Furthermore, virtually all European OEM standards require a long duration of longevity of the HTHS (High Temperature, High Shear) viscosity, many around the 3.5 cP. Neither the API nor ILSAC makes any HTHS requirement.

    As a result of this ultra-modern development in oil technology, and the subsequent development of the engines themselves (particularly with powerful engine electronic ECUs), virtually all modern European cars will demand a specific OEM-only oil standard. As a result, they now invariably make no reference at all to API standards, nor SAE viscosity grades. They may also make no primary reference to the ACEA standards, with the exception of being able to use a "lesser" ACEA grade oil for "emergency top-up", though this usually has strict limits, often up to a maximum of ½ a litre of non-OEM oil.

    [edit] Other additives

    In addition to the viscosity index improvers, motor oil manufacturers often include other additives such as detergents and dispersants to help keep the engine clean by minimizing sludge buildup, corrosion inhibitors, and alkaline additives to neutralize acidic oxidation products of the oil. Most commercial oils have a minimal amount of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate as an anti-wear additive to protect contacting metal surfaces with zinc and other compounds in case of metal to metal contact. The quantity of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate is limited to minimize adverse effect on catalytic converters.

    There are other additives available commercially which can be added to the oil by the user for purported additional benefit. Some of these additives include:

    * Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) additives, which typically also contain calcium, are available to consumers for additional protection under extreme-pressure conditions or in heavy duty performance situations. ZDDP and calcium additives are also added to protect motor oil from oxidative breakdown and to prevent the formation of sludge and varnish deposits.

    * In the 1980s and 1990s, additives with suspended PTFE particles were available to consumers to increase motor oil's ability to coat and protect metal surfaces. There is controversy as to the actual effectiveness of these products as they can solidify and clog the oil filters.

    * Some molybdenum-containing additives to lubricating oils are claimed to reduce friction, bond to metal, or have anti-wear properties.

    * Various other extreme-pressure additives and antiwear additives

    [edit] Synthetic oil and synthetic blends

    Synthetic lubricants were synthesized, or man-made, in quantity initially as a replacement for mineral lubricants (and fuels) by German scientists in the late 1930s and early 1940s due to a shortage of available crude, principally for the German war machine. A significant factor in its gain in popularity was the ability of synthetic based lubricants to remain fluid at the sub-zero temperatures of the Eastern front during winter, temperatures which caused petroleum based lubricants to solidify due to their higher wax content. The use of synthetic lubricants widened through the 1950s and 1960s due to a property at the other end of the temperature spectrum, the ability to lubricate aviation engines at temperatures that caused mineral based lubricants to break down. In the mid 1970s, synthetic motor oils were formulated and commercially applied for the first time in automotive applications. The same SAE system for designating motor oil viscosity also applies to synthetic oils.

    Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils, Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV), although actual base oil content of finished blended motor oils is not a factor. Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a much improved viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils.

    Synthetic lubricants are designed for "long life" extended drain intervals, but most users rarely run them long enough to gain a cost-effective return. If a "synthetic" oil costs 2 to 3 times as much as a conventional oil, it would have to be used for 2 to 3 times longer than a conventional oil just to break even.

    Today, synthetic lubricants are available for use in modern automobiles on nearly all lubricated components, allegedly with superior performance and longevity as compared to non-synthetic alternatives. Some tests[citation needed] have shown that fully synthetic oil is superior to conventional oil in many respects, providing better engine protection, performance, and better flow in cold starts than petroleum-based motor oil. These "tests" simply test the parameters of the oil itself and not really how well they work. Synthetics may offer little or no real-world benefit, as witnessed by the millions and millions of cars that lead long lives on plain motor oil. Generally, other components will fail long before the engine dies of an oil-related failure. Lab analysis of the wear metals contained in the used oil show identical or even lower wear with plain dino oils. Consumer Reports attempted[citation needed] to demonstrate the conventional vs synthetic advantages, but chose taxi cabs as a test-bed, which is actually a non-demanding application since the oil stays hot all the time, easily driving off accumulated water and fuels. This "test" in low-performance engines over a less-demanding driving cycle technically proved little about the subject.

    [edit] Maintenance

    In engines, there is inevitably some exposure of the oil to products of internal combustion, and microscopic coke particles from black soot accumulate in the oil during operation. Also the rubbing of metal engine parts inevitably produces some microscopic metallic particles from the wearing of the surfaces. Such particles could circulate in the oil and grind against the part surfaces causing wear. The oil filter removes many of the particles and sludge, but eventually the oil filter can become clogged, if used for extrmely long periods. Experienced mechanics will cut open the filter canisters to inspect for degree of loading. The motor oil and especially the additives also undergo thermal and mechanical degradation. For these reasons, the oil and the oil filter need to be periodically replaced.

    The vehicle manufacturer may specify which SAE viscosity grade of oil should be used for the vehicles it produces, but many different weights can actually be used. Some manufacturers have specific quality test requirements or "specs" for service in their particular make. In the USA, quick oil change shop's recommended intervals have been 3,000 miles or every 3 months, but one oil brand now markets miles-specific line with 5000, 7500 and even 15,000 miles performance guarantee. Mobil (2008). Mobil Clean Oils. W. M. Retrieved on 1/22, 2008.

    With a degree of ambiguity about how many miles motor oil is actually good for, some people opt for a more convenient time-based schedule. Seasonal changes are desirable where the viscosity can be adjusted for the ambient temperature change, thicker for summer heat and thinner for the winter cold. As a general rule, the thinnest oil is used that does not produce excess wear. Time-based intervals account for both the short trip driver who does less miles, but builds up more contaminates, as well as the long highway trips that are much easier on the oil. Many modern cars now list somewhat higher intervals for changing of oil and filter, with the constraint of "severe" service requiring more frequent changes with less-than ideal driving. Most commonly this applies to short trips of under 10 miles, where the oil does not get to full operating temps long enough to burn off condensation, excess fuel, and other contamination that leads to "sludge", "varnish", "acids", or other deposits. Many manufacturers have engine computer calculations to estimate the oil's condition based on the factors which degrade it such as RPMs, temperatures, and trip length; and one system adds an optical sensor for determining the clarity of the oil in the engine. These systems are commonly known as Oil Life Monitors or OLMs. Over the years, manufacturers have been able to reduce the viscosity of oil needed to correctly lubricate the engine and extend the duration of the servicable life. On the 1970's typical cars took heavy 10w-40 oil and was used for a duration of 2000 miles or less. In the 1980's 5w-30 oils were introduced to improve gas mileage and improve engine performance. A modern typical application would be Honda Motor's use of 5w-20 oil viscosity for 10,000 miles without excess wear or deposits while offering the maximum mpg. Most other manufacturers use 20 weight oils as well. The latest API "SM" spec offers a substantially better product that proceeding specs.

    [edit] Future of motor oil

    A process to break down polyethylene, a common plastic product found in many consumer containers, is used to make wax with the correct molecular properties for conversion into a lubricant, bypassing the expensive Fischer-Tropsch process. The plastic is melted then pumped into a furnace. The heat of the furnace breaks down the molecular chains of polyethylene into wax. Finally, the wax is subjected to a catalytic process that alters the wax's molecular structure leaving a clear oil. (Miller, et al., 2005) New Biodegradable Auto Oil is making an appearance on the market. This oil is formed from fats of cattle. The benefit of this new form of motor oil is the ability to transform the oil back into soil with no negative environmental effects. Typical motor oil needs to go through special treatment facilities where biodegradable motor oil has no effects if you spill it on the ground. (Trend Hunter and Avi)

    [edit] Some popular major producers of motor oil

    * Amsoil
    * Castrol
    * Esso
    * Fuchs
    * Mobil
    * Motul
    * NEO
    * Pentosin
    * Royal Dutch Shell
    * Total S.A.
    * Valvoline
    * Gulf Oil


    Nim. Öljynporausalalla



    F = dp / dt
  19. #49
    Lainaa (wizard11 @ Maalis. 11 2008,15:03) kirjoitti
    Minäpä vetäisen jokerin peliin ja väitän että laatuoljyissäkin on eroja toisin kuten Tylyttäjä väittää...
    Oiltest
    Missä niin väitin? Tokihan labrassa saadaan kaikkien välille mitattuja eroja. Onko sillä käytännössä merkitystä normimotoristin kannalta? Ei ole, kunhan öljy täyttää vaatimukset.

    Kerroin vain, että luokitukset täyttävät öjyt ovat kaikki tarpeeksi hyviä, eli niiden takia ei kone mene rikki. Eikä juuri muutenkaan huomaa eroa.



    Kirjoitukseni ja mielipiteeni ovat henkilökohtaisia. En edusta kirjoituksillani mitään yritystä tai organisaatiota.

    *** Suzuki GSX-R 1070 K5, +200mph Motorcycle Club Edition ***
  20. #50
    Lainaa (Tylyttäjä @ Maalis. 11 2008,15:11) kirjoitti
    Lainaa (wizard11 @ Maalis. 11 2008,15:03) kirjoitti
    Minäpä vetäisen jokerin peliin ja väitän että laatuoljyissäkin on eroja toisin kuten Tylyttäjä väittää...
    Oiltest
    Missä niin väitin? Tokihan labrassa saadaan kaikkien välille mitattuja eroja. Onko sillä käytännössä merkitystä normimotoristin kannalta? Ei ole, kunhan öljy täyttää vaatimukset.

    Kerroin vain, että luokitukset täyttävät öjyt ovat kaikki tarpeeksi hyviä, eli niiden takia ei kone mene rikki. Eikä juuri muutenkaan huomaa eroa.
    Tota minäkin perään.

    Ymmmärrän jossain volkkarin long life käytössä, jos ajelee 50tkm samoilla litkuilla on parempi heittää koneesee mobilin tai castrolin luokituksen täyttävää litkua (huom. taas kerran luokituksen täyttävää).

    Jos taas vaihtovälit on lyhyitä, mitä saavutat muutaman prosentin paremmalla voitelulla käytännössä? Tuon voi kompensoida vaihtamalla noi biliksen liemet tai Delvacit vähän tiheämmin kuin superöljyt, jonka jälkeen käytännössä kuluminen on taas samoissa.
    zx10r -04 + gs1000g -80, gs850g -79 + gs550e -78 + kz440 ltd -80 + gt380 -73 + yz250 -91 + kx80 -94 + XL600 -85, Gas Gas JT250 -96
  21. #51
    Lainaa (svahnm @ Maalis. 11 2008,15:32) kirjoitti
    ...
    Ymmmärrän jossain volkkarin long life käytössä, jos ajelee 50tkm samoilla litkuilla on parempi heittää koneesee mobilin tai castrolin luokituksen täyttävää litkua (huom. taas kerran luokituksen täyttävää)...
    Tuostakin voi vielä jättää nuo öljymerkit pois ja käyttää sitä, mikä täyttää tuohon käyttöön vaaditut luokitukset.

    Minäkin olen kyllä sitä mieltä, että kunhan öljy täyttää vaatimukset, niin on aika sama, mitä siinä purkissa merkkinä lukee. Vaikka toki niissä testien mukaan erojakin on...
    XL1200S, eli Sportster 1200 Sport -96
    FLHRI, eli Road King -97
  22. #52
    Lainaa (vmt @ Maalis. 11 2008,16:00) kirjoitti
    Lainaa (svahnm @ Maalis. 11 2008,15:32) kirjoitti
    ...
    Ymmmärrän jossain volkkarin long life käytössä, jos ajelee 50tkm samoilla litkuilla on parempi heittää koneesee mobilin tai castrolin luokituksen täyttävää litkua (huom. taas kerran luokituksen täyttävää)...
    Tuostakin voi vielä jättää nuo öljymerkit pois ja käyttää sitä, mikä täyttää tuohon käyttöön vaaditut luokitukset.

    Minäkin olen kyllä sitä mieltä, että kunhan öljy täyttää vaatimukset, niin on aika sama, mitä siinä purkissa merkkinä lukee. Vaikka toki niissä testien mukaan erojakin on...
    No joo, näin juuri, mutta pointtina oli, että jos ajaa tappiin saakka samoilla öljyillä silloin ehkä merkkien välillä voisi tulla jonkinlaisia eroja. Ei niitäkään ensimmäinen omistaja pääse todistamaan. Hedelmä kannetaan vasta viimeisillä kilometreillä.
    zx10r -04 + gs1000g -80, gs850g -79 + gs550e -78 + kz440 ltd -80 + gt380 -73 + yz250 -91 + kx80 -94 + XL600 -85, Gas Gas JT250 -96
  23. #53
    Tätä juuri alunperin ajoin takaa. Todistettavat kone- yms rikot jne?
    Kannattaa vaihtaa öljy vaikka vähän useammin ja näillä halvemmilla
    se ei paljon pussissa tunnu. Toki jotkut ovat tässäkin ketjussa
    pitäneet mahdollisimman kalliita hintoja moottoripyöräilyn perus-
    vaatimuksena.
    MZ 125,Y RD125, Honda TA, C Elefant e750, Yamaha FZ6, D MS DS1000, BMW F800R, Ducati M696, Ducati GT1000, MG Griso 8 v, Honda XX, Suzuki DL650, Y XVS1300, H-D VRSCDX, Honda VFR800X, VN 1700,MG Vintage,MG Bellagio,MG Breva,BMW R1200R,VicV, Vic BW, F800GT
  24. #54
    Mitä, eikö tuossa testissä ollut dynotestejä noista laitteista eri öljymerkeillä?

    Jos olisi ollut, niin kaikki tietää kuka täällä huutaisi vaahto suussa ja tatti tanassa sen öljymerkin puolesta, jolla kenties saavutettiin valtaisa puolen hevosvoiman lisäys huipputehoon.

    Tai puolikas newtoni vääntöön
  25. #55
    Lainaa (dabster @ Maalis. 11 2008,19:52) kirjoitti
    Mitä, eikö tuossa testissä ollut dynotestejä noista laitteista eri öljymerkeillä?

    Jos olisi ollut, niin kaikki tietää kuka täällä huutaisi vaahto suussa ja tatti tanassa sen öljymerkin puolesta, jolla kenties saavutettiin valtaisa puolen hevosvoiman lisäys huipputehoon. *

    Tai puolikas newtoni vääntöön *
    Ei silläkään ole mitään merkitystä...

    Aikaisemmin, jo muutama vuosi sitten näille hifi-öljyn hehkuttajille mainitsin, että sillä ei ole paskankaan väliä, jos saat hepan-kaksi lisää jollain hiton kalliilla liru-race öljyllä. Öljyn käyttöikä lyhenee ja mekaaniset äänet kovenee. Tänne linkitettiin nimittäin sellainen testi, ja jotkut sitten "suu vaahdossa" hehkuttivat niitä hifi-öljyjä *



    Kirjoitukseni ja mielipiteeni ovat henkilökohtaisia. En edusta kirjoituksillani mitään yritystä tai organisaatiota.

    *** Suzuki GSX-R 1070 K5, +200mph Motorcycle Club Edition ***
  26. #56
    Kaveri muuten ajeli Lite acella 160000 km. (satakuusikymmentä tuhatta ) ja siihen vaihdettiin vaan eka huollossa öljyt : eka huolto oli ilimanen . Lisäili kun tarvi ja säästi aikas palajo rahnaa...... , että ei se motti ihan helposti sököks` mee . Sen kummemmin asiaan kantaa ottamatta....
  27. #57
    Mutta on sen pakko olla huonoa... On liian halpaa ,että voitelisi edes saranoita
    Purkitetaan uudelleen ja laitetaan lisää hintaa ja komia kyykyn kuva kupeeseen niin jovain on käypästä esannssia vaikka mihin
    Antaa raudan hieroo,ei sillä järkee oo...
  28. #58
    Ajaahan moni sillä Hondan perusliemelläkin ja sekään mineraalimömmö ei tainnut kovin ultraöljyä olla.. Munkin pyörään oli sitä ekassa tonnin huollossa laitettu bikeworldissä vai FN:llä. Varmaan ihan hyvä Delvacin korvike.
    zx10r -04 + gs1000g -80, gs850g -79 + gs550e -78 + kz440 ltd -80 + gt380 -73 + yz250 -91 + kx80 -94 + XL600 -85, Gas Gas JT250 -96
  29. #59
    Voisihan tuota Bilteman täyssynteettistä (36-437) kokeilla FZ1:een. Ei tuo nyt huonolta vaikuta jos katsoo mitä laatuvaatimuksia se täyttää: JASO MA2, JASO T903:2006 4T, API: SM.

    Vanhaan CBR600rr:ään laitoin Hondan GN4:ää eikä sen purkin kyljessä ainakaan lukenut kuin API SG/SF. Hyvin toimi vielä 40000km kohdalla vaikka oli rataa ja matkaa ajeltu. Öljyäkään ei vienyt lainkaan.
  30.  
  31. #60
    Tuo Castrol R4 muuten täyttää "vain" API SL vaatimukset ;)



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